Serena Williams’ game-changing fashion

How the tennis star’s bedazzled looks transcend boundaries

Jessica Mills / Arts & Culture Editor / The USD Vista

When picturing a uniform for a female tennis player, a short, one-toned skirt or dress comes to mind. Perhaps a matching vizor as well, but – when Serena Williams steps out onto a tennis court – her uniform is anything but ordinary. 

Williams played her last tennis match on Aug. 29. In ESPN’s 43-year history, it was their most watched event ever, with 6.9 million viewers. During the game, Williams wore what may appear as a simple Nike black dress, but it was actually a symbolic farewell: a bodice, bedazzled with a galaxy of stars and a six-layered skirt with one tier for every U.S. open title she won. 

lady walking onto tennis court carrying bags
Williams stepped out for her last match in her Nike black dress. Photo courtesy of @Serenawilliams/Instagram
manniquin in black fabric
Williams Nike black dress embodies her boldness.  Photo courtesy of @Nikewomen/Instagram

Since her professional debut in 1995, the decorated tennis champion crafted a specific image for change. Her outfits are carefully designed as an expression of identity and a weapon against racial barriers and gender stereotypes.

In the sports world, women – especially women of color – are frequently told to “blend in.” During her career, Williams rejected the idea that non-male athletes should look and behave a certain way. She wore tutus, one-legged catsuits and everything in between. Alongside her outfits, the tennis star unashamedly brought her emotions, build and confidence to every match. 

Despite the science behind athletic-performance garments, female tennis players often wear a short and simple flap of fabric meant to be a dress. These hyper-feminine uniforms lead to society sexualizing players and reinforce an unrealistic body and beauty standard.

While less material might help reduce friction, Williams is a prime example of how aerodynamics can be achieved without sexualization. A dress code is enforced in most professional tennis tournaments, but form fitting skirts are not required. Despite this, athletic clothing companies continue to manufacture tennis uniforms that force femininity. Conversely, Williams’ clothing highlights her performance, not just her body.

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Williams donned a colorful look for the 2022 Eastbourne Tournament. Photo courtesy of @Serenawilliams/Instagram

Williams donned one of her most memorable and controversial on-court looks at the 2004 U.S. Open: a Nike denim skirt and studded tank top. Regardless of negative feedback, Williams embraced mixing active wear and street style. 

During the 2013 Australian Open, Nike chose to debut their Black History Month Collection with Williams. Her vibrant, orange shoes featured African elements and patterns, matching her Nike headband. “Seeing Serena,” a novel detailing Williams’ return to tennis after giving birth in 2017, addresses the attention she faced as a black woman in a white-dominated sport. Rather than cowering from scrutiny, Williams used her skills and fashion to change the game for everyone. Early on, she decided to be “a subject of that attention, rather than an object” as stated in the book. 

Returning to the 2019 French Open, Williams sported a two-piece top and skirt by Virgil Abloh for Nike x Off-White. The black-and-white top featured the words “Mother,” “Goddess,” “Queen” and “Champion,” in both English and French, as a mantra for her game.  

black and white photo of lady standing and looking at camera
Williams’ in her Off-White x Nike collaboration outfit for the 2019 French Open. Photo courtesy of @Virgilabloh/Instagram

USD junior and tennis player Jordyn McBride believes Williams’ outfits embody confidence, strength and feeling comfortable in one’s skin. 

“She adds a lot of glamor to her outfits, such as flowy skirts, diamonds in her hair and eccentric colors,” McBride said. “It shows that you can be feminine on court while also being tough, and she balances between those gracefully.” 

McBride explained that future tennis players will be impacted by Williams’ fashion choices. 

“Serena Williams set the tone for women in sports; that you can wear what makes you feel great, while still being the best at what you do.”

Her love for fashion started at a young age, when her mother used Vogue patterns to create tennis outfits for her and her older sister, Venus. Early in her career, Williams would sew and rhinestone different pieces of her outfits, paying special attention to every detail.

Now, Williams designs clothing for her own fashion brand called S by Serena, which empowers others to look and feel their best. Diverse models and a wide range of sizes further push her mission of inclusivity. 

Throughout her 27-year career, Serena Williams altered the world’s perception of women – especially women of color – in sports. She proved strength and beauty can exist synonymously. While this may have been her final game, Williams’ enduring influence on the world is just beginning.